Cleo Yardage and Fabric Recommendations

Cleo - View Card - 800px (1)

The Cleo Skirt pattern is coming next week! Sign up for my newsletter if you want to be the first to hear about it!

Cleo has a flat front waistband with elastic in the back (no zippers or closures!), and two views with different lengths, hem finishes, and pocket styles. Here are a few posts where I’ve shared versions of this sweet skirt:
Cleo Skirt is coming soon!
Green Striped Cleo Skirt
Flying Cranes Skirt

There are some peeks under the hashtag #cleoskirt on Instagram too.

If you’re eager to gather your supplies in preparation for the pattern release, here’s what you’ll need:

  • Woven fabric (see yardage chart below for amounts)
  • 1/8 yard lightweight fusible interfacing
  • 1.25″-wide elastic (see chart below for lengths)
  • Coordinating thread

Recommended fabrics
I recommend light to medium weight fabrics such as lawn, voile, double gauze, poplin, shirting, baby wale corduroy, sateen, silk, quilting cotton, linen, or cotton-linen blends for the Cleo skirt. The thickness of your fabric and the degree of drape will determine how the skirt will fit, so keep that in mind. I’ve made versions of this skirt out of quilting cotton, a loosely woven lightweight cotton (Loominous — HIGHLY recommend), lawn, Carolina gingham, Cirrus solids, and rayon challis, just to name a few of the types of fabric I’ve tried, and I found that fabric choice completely transforms this pattern. Flowy fabrics with a high amount of drape turn this skirt into something more elegant and body skimming, while thicker fabrics with less drape create a skirt that feels more full and stands away from the body more. So think about what look you are going for when you choose your fabric! I can’t wait to show you all of the versions I’ve sewn. I think you’ll find that Cleo makes a great blank template for creating many different kinds of skirts.

Cleo_YardageCard_nologos_792

cleo skirt elastic requirments

Extended sizes for Cleo!
I’m happy to say that Cleo (following the lead of my most recent two women’s patterns, Gemma and Isla) will also be available in our extended size range. Here’s the size chart:

Womens Size Chart - in cm - 9 sizes -792 - no logo

Let me know if you have any questions! We’re just putting the finishing touches on this pattern and I can hardly wait to share it with you.

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Cleo skirt is coming soon!

Black and Grey Silk Cleo

The Cleo skirt pattern is nearly ready! This week, we’re putting the finishing touches on the layout, getting the yardage charts ready to share, working on the shop listing, and formatting the copy shop files. I’m hoping to have it ready to launch next week.

Black silk Cleo Skirt

One of my points of inspiration for this particular Cleo skirt was this image of a colorblocked black and grey skirt that I stumbled upon via Pinterest a few years back, though I really need a black henley to complete the look. Mental note: sew self black henley.

Black and Grey Silk Cleo

However, with this bow blouse from Target and my new 90’s-style glasses I think this look (which I sported for Christmas 2016) is still pretty great slash hilarious. I feel like a fancy librarian. And I mean that with much love, as my mom and littlest sister are both librarians. Mental note: take photo shushing the camera.

Black and Grey Silk Cleo

The silky fabric is a silk-cotton blend (read: machine washable, yay!!) by Robert Kaufman called “Radiance.” I bought some last year from Fiddlehead Artisan Supply, who have a fantastic selection of Radiance in numerous colors (disclaimer: Fiddlehead is a former sponsor of this blog) and I absolutely loved the fabric. Nichole at Robert Kaufman was kind enough to send us even more of it last spring when we started developing Cleo (and then subsequently put it on hold for other projects. Ahem). So, I’m excited to finally be able to show it off in my (almost-here-coming-soon) new pattern, as well as alert you to its existence, in case you’ve not stumbled across it before. Personally I find solid apparel fabrics really difficult to sift through online, so I always appreciate knowing what other people recommend. It’s light, super soft, drapey, and the reverse side is a more matte silk, which could also be really fun to sew for something with a less fancy effect.

Black and Grey Silk Cleo

Here it is in a more summery ensemble. Also slightly less wrinkly. It works best to steam rather than iron this fabric and I probably should have done more before taking these photos.

Black silk Cleo Skirt

This version of the Cleo pattern is “View A” and features cut-out pockets (sewn in with what I feel is a rather clever construction technique) and a contrast hem band. View B is longer, has inseam pockets, and was first introduced in this post.

Black silk Cleo Skirt

For those of you getting excited for this pattern, I’ll share yardage and fabric recommendations for Cleo here on the blog, soon!

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Hugo’s Pencil Shirt and Fleece Parsley Pants

Flashback tee + parsley pants for Hugo

Here’s my little monster in a few new things I’ve made for him recently: a Flashback Tee in Sidewalk interlock and some fleece Parsley Pants. It could hardly have escaped anyone’s notice that now we both own knit pencil tops (here’s mine)…which means a pretty awesome photo shoot needs to happen soon. Twinsies with a toddler, YEAH!

Flashback tee + parsley pants for Hugo

CHEESE.

Flashback tee + parsley pants for Hugo

I love making Parsley Pants in fleece since it adds a bit of stretch and makes them super cosy to wear. I made two pairs for him: the blue pair he’s wearing in these pics, and a green pair which are a lovely quality Mill End fleece and therefore even more cosy. The green ones I accidentally pressed with the iron on the cotton setting (oops!) and melted, so I had to put in a separate waistband. Which actually looks really cute, though it’s more work.

Flashback tee + parsley pants for Hugo

Flashback tee + parsley pants for Hugo

I’ve been adding elastic to the cuff (like I did with these Big Butt Baby pants awww tiny baby Hugo alert!!) because I think it’s cute when they’re cinched in at the ankle. I also added some tags — gifted to me from past sponsor Custom Labels 4U — to the waistbands and neckband of the tee. I don’t know why I didn’t start doing this sooner; it’s so helpful to know the size of handmade stuff, and I love having my logo tag in there too. I did previously use a handful of size labels I bought from an Etsy shop (you can see them in this post ACK another adorable Hugo post!!!); those were also great but weren’t woven and so those ended up curling up after washing which made them harder to read. Super handy though, no matter what you do.

Flashback Sidewalk Hugo tee - labels

New clothes for Hugo

My one complaint with these tags is that Hugo does have pretty sensitive skin and the edges of the logo tags are a bit scratchy (I don’t notice this with the size tags), so I think next time I’ll try putting them on the outside instead of inside the garment; maybe at a side seam or something.

Flashback tee + parsley pants for Hugo

He is perpetually sick and rosy-cheeked these days, poor babe. I love love love this age so much — he is saying the most ridiculously adorable things to us, every day, but I also hate how he is sick all of the time. It can be so trying. I had terrible sleep last night because he slept in our bed all night and was up coughing at regular intervals.

Since I took these pics a couple of weeks ago, I painted the wall behind him with chalkboard paint (so fun!! here’s a peek) and cut his hair (which you can see in this post). And, my Sidewalk knit fabric is now in shops! Here’s a list of Sidewalk stockists if you want to pick up some for yourself. Be sure to add the #sidewalkfabric hashtag if you post pics to social media because I would really love to see what you’re sewing for yourself with these knits!

Gingham Gemma

It’s almost December and therefore sweater weather, so it may seem strange to post about a Gemma Tank, but this top is something I find myself wearing quite a bit these days, under cardigans of course. I find I prefer sleeveless tops to sleeved tops when I’m wearing a sweater, because I don’t like that bunchy feeling you get when you try to stuff a shirt sleeve into a sweater sleeve; it makes me really twitchy and uncomfortable. Much like Clementine when she’s putting on her socks in the morning and doesn’t like how the sock seams feel in her shoes and then throws a fit and is late for school. What was I talking about?

Gemma tank

Here is is, sans cardi:

Gemma Tank

If this fabric looks familiar, it might be because this is the third (and final, I’m now out of yardage) garment I managed to squeeze out of this navy gingham  I picked up at Purl Soho. The other two things I made were this cute little Charlie top for Hugo and a Pearl shift for me. I like how the bias around the neckline pops out because of the gingham.

Gingham Gemma Tank

To be completely truthful this tank isn’t exactly the same as the Gemma pattern, because the pattern changed a bit as I worked on it and this was one of the earlier versions I made. The shoulders are a bit wider on this one than they are on the final pattern — I felt like the broader shoulders were a bit frumpy, so I narrowed them — and I eventually settled on two necklines for the final pattern, one a bit higher than this one, and one a bit lower.

Gemma is available in my pattern shop, comes in both A/B and C/D cup sizes, and looks great under winter cardigans!!!

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Staystitching is Important

staystitching

Attention, everyone, this is a sewing PSA. Staystitching is a garment-sewing technique that is really important. I am sharing this with you because when I started sewing, many years ago, I did not know what staystitching was, but even if I had, I probably would have skipped it. Now that I am older and wiser, I want to share this nugget of wisdom with you.

If you’ve ever sewn one of my women’s patterns (specifically for woven fabrics, such as Ruby, Beatrix, or Gemma), you may have noticed a step that instructs you to staystitch, followed by the words “IMPORTANT: DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.” I’m guessing most people ignore this, mostly because if I didn’t know better, I probably would.

I’ve mentioned before that my mom taught me how to sew, but knowing how stubborn and headstrong I was as a child,* I doubt once she communicated the fundamentals to me that I spent much time listening to any further details. Details like: be careful about skipping steps that might initially seem unnecessary, because you may regret it.

In addition, my younger sister Elli took a 4-H sewing class from a very strict and anal retentive seamstress, and her experience left a strong impression on me. I remember the jumper she was working on taking her the better part of a year to complete, which seemed like utter torture to me. It made sewing seem so un-fun. As a result, I took an alternate approach with a more carefree sewing attitude: skip all but the most essential steps, and see what happens. In some cases, I discovered it didn’t really matter that much (three rows of gathering stitches vs. two or even in some cases — GASP — ONE.), but in other cases, I’ve discovered that taking a little extra time to add a seam finish or in this case, staystitch, can make a big difference.

*I can picture my mom thinking, “Just as a child…?” as she reads this.

So…what IS staystitching?
Staystitching is a line of stitching added to the edge of a piece of fabric (often along a curved edge such as a neckline or an armhole, but not always) that stabilizes the fabric so that it won’t stretch out while it’s being sewn. Additionally, if you’re making a piece of clothing, staystitching prevents the edges from stretching out if you try it on to check fit. The staystitching lines in the photo below are around the armholes and neckline of my chambray Gemma tank.

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How and when do you staystitch?
To staystitch an edge, sew along the edge of the fabric, about 1/8″ away from the edge, using a normal straight stitch. Earlier patterns of mine said “using a regular length or slightly shorter than normal length stitch,” but I’ve since decided that a shorter stitch actually stretches out the fabric too much, so I now recommend a regular length stitch such as 2.5-3 mm.

As for when to staystitch, I think there are two schools of thought. The stricter approach is to staystitch edges after you cut out your fabric pieces, but before you do any sewing. I feel this is only necessary when sewing with a really unstable or slippery fabric. The other approach, which I prefer, is to staystitch any curved edges such as necklines or armholes after shoulder or side seams are sewn, but before facings or bindings or sleeves are attached. I take this more moderate/less strict approach because in most cases, woven fabrics are stable enough to sew some of the seams before staystitching without stretching out the garment significantly. Additionally, staystitching goes much faster when you can do a whole armhole in one go, instead of, say, having to staystitch the front armhole separately from the back armhole due to the shoulder seams having not yet been sewn.

That said, I can appreciate that some sewists would disagree and say that it’s better to be safe than sorry. I almost always favor the quick and easy sew, as long as it doesn’t sacrifice good construction technique.

I’ve probably utterly confused some of you, and if that’s the case, my recommendation would be just to try staystitching the next time you sew a piece of clothing. It definitely make more sense if you’ve got the garment in front of you, to be sure.

So, what say ye? Are you a Die-hard Staystitch-er? Or do you play it fast and loose and skip it? Have I convinced anyone to change your short-cutting ways?

Green Striped Cleo Skirt

Cleo Skirt | View B

Oh Nani Iro double gauze, how I love you so. I sewed this delightful fabric into a Cleo skirt (the sewing pattern I’m currently working on, yay!!) earlier this summer. I la-la-love it. Double gauze is so crazy comfortable and soft, and these stripes look like they were painted on by hand. This skirt has inseam pockets which seem more and more critical to me in a garment the more I sew, plus a flat-front with elastic-back waistband, so it’s quite comfortable to wear. New favorite skirt alert!

Cleo Skirt

The “midi” length falls below the knee, resulting in something that gives me strong flashbacks of the skirts my mother wore to church in the summer back in the 80’s along with a large perm and sandals, even more so when I wear it with my chambray Gemma tank. I am admittedly confused by the word “midi.” Has this word been around a very long time? It seems to have popped up in the last couple of years, and the first time I heard it I had to look it up. I suppose I risk sounding incredibly stupid by admitting that, but there it is.

Cleo Skirt

This version will be “View B” of the Cleo skirt pattern, with View A sporting cut out pockets and a band along the hem ala the Flying Crane skirt. If you got my fall pattern preview newsletter back in September, you’ll have seen a more thorough description plus more photos of Cleo already (you can sign up for my email updates here, by the way). If not, rest assured you’ll see more posts of this pattern very soon!

Cleo Skirt

Let me tell you how long it takes to make a sewing pattern: forever. I previewed this skirt pattern on Instagram back in February (though I’ve been working on this design since early 2013…yes, 2013), and if you asked me in February when this one would be ready, I probably told you late spring. But then there was Gemma, and Isla, and now I’m serious, this pattern will happen next. I do feel a bit badly since I know some of you have been excited for this pattern for a long time and probably feel a bit impatient. If so, you have a good sense for how long it takes me to make a pattern. So I have a question for you: do you prefer when pattern designers surprise you with a design once it’s ready so that you can sew it right away? I feel like a lot of the big indie pattern designers keep everything very secret until they are absolutely ready to a launch. Or do you enjoy seeing the designs while they are in progress? As a sewing pattern consumer, I can see benefits to both approaches, but as a pattern designer I wonder if it would be better if I took the Super Secret approach. What do you think?

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Monaluna Flashback with skirt

It’s Friday, friends. And what a week. Let’s talk about something fun, like this cheerful knit top I made for Clementine!

Monaluna Flashback with skirt

I started with my Flashback Skinny Tee pattern in a size 7/8 (how is she so big? WAAAAAH *weeps into coffee cup*), cut off the bodice halfway between the armpit and the hem and added a gathered skirt to the bottom. I made the skirt twice as wide as the bodice and about 11″ tall. Everything else is exactly the same as the original Flashback pattern (cuffs, neckband, fit, etc). I’ve made Flashbacks with skirts before (here and here), but as dresses instead of a top.

Monaluna Flashback with skirt

This awesome fabric is a Monaluna knit in Groovy Lotus and I love how it has a very Scandinavian-esque vibe, kind of like something you would find in Hanna Andersson. I’ve always loved the feel and modern designs of Monaluna fabrics (owner Jennifer Moore is a friend and so lovely), so I almost can’t believe this was the first time I sewed with one of the knits. Verdict? Nice and soft, nice amount of stretch, yet still very easy to work with. Love that it’s 100% organic, too! So nice that I went out and bought a bunch more from her shop last month when she had a knits sale (hint: get on the shop email list!).

Monaluna Flashback with skirt

Monaluna Flashback with skirt

And here is my little goofball illustrating her favorite poses:

 

Monaluna Flashback with skirt

Some serious walk-off fodder here.

Monaluna Flashback with skirt

And…cross-eyed. That’s my little lady.

Monaluna Flashback with skirt

Have a wonderful and relaxing weekend, everyone!

Sidewalk Flashback Tees

Here’s a little more Sidewalk cuteness for you today! These Flashback Tees are all samples that Jess sewed up for last spring’s Quilt Market. As with the two Isla samples I posted last week, the designs were printed on Spoonflower fabric so we would have samples in time for the show, which means that they are a little different from the final prints. I think the most noticeable difference in color is that the samples have a more citron yellow, while the final prints definitely have a more sunny yellow. The sample fabric also ended up being less stretchy and soft than the Cloud9 interlock, so they worked nicely for photographs even if they won’t end up being worn.

Sidewalk Flashback tee

Hugo is wearing the Flashback Skinny Tee in size 2T in the “Bus Stop” print with “Art Class” collar and cuffs. I knew from the beginning that I wanted to include a bus print in this knit collection for Hugo. He gets excited and yells, “Oh!! BUS!!” whenever he sees buses drive by.

Sidewalk knits

Made by Rae Sidewalk knits for Cloud9 Fabrics (Fall 2016)

This Flashback is made with the “Red Rover” print with cuffs and collar in “Off the Trail,” a print that features cute little snakes. It’s a little crazy with the snakes as contrast, but oh well. Red Rover originated as a print in my Small World corduroy collection, and has been so popular that Cloud9 also released it on cotton laminate this fall (raincoats, anyone?) and now it’s making its reprise on interlock for Sidewalk with black instead of blue as the secondary color. Made by Rae Sidewalk knits for Cloud9 Fabrics (Fall 2016)

The “Bug’s Life” print in white and green makes for a pretty cute little shirt, too! I think this would be perfect for a pair of pajamas!

Flashback Skinny Tee in Sidewalk Knits

Sidewalk is my new line of interlock knits for Cloud9 Fabrics. It will be be shipping to retail shops soon!

Blush Crush

Luna Pants / Pink Rayon

Words can’t express how in love I am with these pants. I made them with my Luna Pants pattern and a flowy pink rayon twill and they are wicked comfy. Hashtag secret pajamas. I bought the rayon from Indiesew earlier this year but it is now sadly out of stock. Allie stocks such delightful fabrics that I can hardly resist buying at least some yardage every time she releases a new fabric collection. When I made these pants a few weeks ago it was still “summer” in Ann Arbor, so I took some photos with my Gemma tank and Ruby top (and the worst haircut I have probably ever had). Now it’s cooled off quite a bit so I’m wearing them with a camel colored wool cardigan instead (see my post Blush + Bronze for an ode to my current favorite color combination). And obviously NOT SANDALS. You get the idea.

Luna Pants / Pink Rayon

Luna Pants / Pink Rayon

Hmm what else is there to say about these…I just love how fabric choice can completely transform a pattern. In this case, the flowy rayon dresses them up so that I could easily see wearing these out with a silk top for dinner and/or a date. I was definitely inspired by a couple of the photos on my Luna Inspiration boards, though for some reason all of the flowy-rayon-type pants in that post are paired with heels. You will never see me wearing Lunas with heels. You will probably never see me wearing heels, period; that just seems like a disaster waiting to happen. Hooray for being uncoordinated and awkward and therefore fully flat-footed at all times!!!

Luna Pants / Pink Rayon

You can find the Luna pattern in my shop, and I highly recommend trying it with some rayon if you can find it!

Luna Pants / Pink Rayon