Gingham Charlie for Hugo

gingham charlie (front view)

With the onset of cooler fall weather, I’m suddenly motivated to unload the bits of summer clothing I made for the kids onto the blog before they’re completely out of season. First up, this little gingham Charlie Tunic for Hugo.

gingham charlie tunic

I made a few minor edits to the pattern, including cutting the neckline facings on the bias so that they contrast a bit with the body of the shirt and adding a curved hem (I just trim away about 1″ at the side seams for this). I also shortened the sleeve by a few inches and skipped the sleeve facings.

gingham charlie tunic

This pattern is a pretty old pattern (“old” being relative of course, in this case relative to the age of the Internet). I have dreams of updating it when I have a little more time. For starters I kinda feel like I should change the name. There are at least three children’s patterns (including one that just came out last year!!) called Charlie. Second, the curved hem is nice, and I don’t think anyone actually uses the little side vent thingies I designed the first one with (you can see those in this Charlie Tunic post with leeetle Elliot). Third, I think the dress and top should just come as one pattern instead of having the dress option be an add-on…right now you have to tape extra things together to make the dress (ooh! ooh! Cute Charlie Dress post!)…anyway.

gingham charlie tunic


Hugo is now 18 months old and as you can see here, he is getting into EVERYTHING. Exhibit A: the stereo cabinet.
gingham charlie tunic

Curious George (Hugo calls him “Judge”) saves the day.

gingham charlie tunic

gingham charlie tunic

The fabric is navy Kokka Gingham from Purl Soho, and you can find the pattern and variations in my shop: Charlie Tunic Pattern / Charlie Dress Add-On / Charlie Pattern Pack (dress and tunic bundle)

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Picking a cover for Ruby

I thought it would be fun to show you something that Elli is working on these days, a little behind-the-scenes post of sorts. We took a break from new pattern production this summer after Beatrix (honestly we all just needed to step away, that one was really intense), and I wanted to work on putting a few more of our women’s patterns into print before we started on something new. Ruby seemed like a great candidate because it would make the perfect beginner garment sewing class, and we’ve noticed that the shops that carry my print patterns often use them for sewing classes.


It takes quite a bit of work to turn a digital pattern into a print pattern because not only do the instructions have to be laid out differently, we also need a cover for the pattern. A few years ago I hired Lauren Dahl to create a cover for the Washi Dress pattern, so Elli (who does all of our graphics work now; she also happens to be my sister) used the layout Lauren created for Washi to make something similar for Ruby.


You can see we narrowed it down to two candidates for the cover sample. I made the yellow Ruby top out of some double gauze and lace I had left over from other projects (the yellow double gauze was from this Josephine, and the lace was from this lace top). I’ve worn the top a few times this summer but I made it mainly thinking it might make a good cover photo for the print pattern. Here it is on the hanger:


And on me:


The other candidate for the cover shots was this Ruby Dress (if you follow that link you’ll see I’ve been thinking about the cover of this pattern for over a year). Here it is on the hanger:


And on me:


Jess and Elli and I spent a little time discussing which one of these shots was better for the cover. If we chose the yellow top cover, the lace might scare people away if they thought they could only use lace for the yoke (any fabric will do!) or were worried about it being see-through, but on the other hand, the solid yellow is really pretty universally appealing whereas the red feather print might be more of a personal taste thing. The red dress cover is my favorite photo of the two, but we were worried that the point on the bottom of the skirt might look too A-line; the dress hangs a little straighter normally and we didn’t want to give the wrong impression about its shape. So we zoomed in a little for the cover draft you see above, but then you can’t tell how long it is.

What do you think? Which is your favorite? Can you believe we spend so much time talking about such tiny details?? Sometimes I think I overthink this stuff way too much. Anyway, we’re sending the proofs to the printer this week so you’ll know which one we chose soon!!!

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How to make a Beatrix View A with the View B button placket

beatrix how to view a+b
One of my favorite ways to make the Beatrix Top is actually a pattern hack. You may recall that the pattern includes a View A (which I like to call the “shirttail version”) and a View B (which we call the “banded version”).

It’s super duper easy to create this hybrid of the two views, and the Original Beatrix and Let’s have a (Beatrix) party tops are both examples of this. In fact we almost included this version in the pattern but decided against it because a) the pattern instructions were already getting pretty long with the two views and we were behind deadline, and b) it’s just so easy to show with a photo tutorial, so we decided to go with the tutorial. Which I then delegated. TO JESS. Heh. So, in this post, Jess will show you how to make Beatrix with the shirttail hem and sleeves from View A, plus a contrasting button placket borrowed from View B, like this:
front back beatrix


Hi folks! Jess here. I was making this Beatrix anyway, so I made myself useful and took some photos in the process! Here goes.

First, cut out and prepare your pattern pieces. Follow the cutting instructions for View A (page 6) with ONE EXCEPTION: cut your Back Bodice pieces along the vertical “Cut here for banded bodice (View B)” line.



Also cut two Button Plackets out of a contrast fabric (these are the only View B pieces you’ll need). Transfer markings as instructed for View A (page 6), and attach interfacing to Front Facing and Back Facings (page 8). Now fold and press Button Plackets, then attach interfacing (page 8).

Here’s what you should have:

  • one front bodice (darts marked)
  • two back bodices cut on the View B line, and two button plackets (folded, pressed, and interfaced)
  • front and back facings (with interfacing)
  • two sleeves (short sleeves pictured, marked Left and Right with fold line marked)

Beatrix tute 1

Beatrix tute 2

Now, sew button plackets to back bodice pieces: With raw edges at center back and right sides facing, pin each button placket to its corresponding back bodice (if your fabric has a directional print, make sure it’s pointing the right way up). Sew button plackets to back bodices with a 1/2″ seam allowance.



Press seam allowances away from the bodice, toward the plackets:

Proceed as for View A. From here, you get to follow all of the directions exactly as written for View A, starting with Step 1 on page 9. Here are some photos for reference:

In Step 9, fold the button placket to the right side and stitch down 1/4″ from the top along the folded portion:

Stitch along the bottom of the folded portion and all the way around the curved hem with a 1/2″ seam allowance:


Attach facings using a 1/4″ seam allowance:

Step 11: Pin “in the ditch” from the right side, catching the folded edge of the placket on the inside of the garment. I use fabric clips to hold my curved hem in place (and I forgot to take a picture before I sewed the hem, whoops!)

Note the directions of the pins: you’ll be sewing DOWN the left side of the back and UP the right side, so pin accordingly.

Here’s that finished seam at the top and bottom:

Now all you have to do is add buttonholes, sew on buttons (see page 20 for Very Detailed Instructions), and put your top on!

Beatrix View A with View B Button band

Beatrix View A with View B Button band

Beatrix View A with View B Button band

I LOVE my new Beatrix! I made this top out of Chambray Union in Indigo (our sponsor, Fiddlehead Artisan Supply, has it in stock), with a Palos Verdes Voile button band. And those are vintage carved flower buttons made out of shell, so they’re shiny and a little hard to photograph (here’s a close-up) … but oh so pretty!

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Striped Flashback Tee for Hugo

blue flashback tee for Hugo

It’s been a while since I posted pics of le bebe, so let me show you the latest Flashback Tee I made for him!! It’s a whole new world of clothes-making for Hugo now that he’s fully into the 12-18 month size I tell you. Now I can make him Charlie Tunics and Flashback Tees since both patterns run size 12 mo – 5!! I had a few small scraps left over from a Lillestof knit I used to make this Flashback henley for Elliot, perfect for a tiny tee. I think it looks particularly cute paired with these mini Boden pants. Unfortunately the pants don’t fit over his cloth diapers very well, good thing they make up for their illfittingness (new word alert) with cuteness. I really should have made some yellow twill B3Ps!!

blue flashback tee for Hugo

He is teething in a major way right now: currently his third and fourth teeth are pushing through his upper gums, so this banana toothbrush has been in constant use as a teething toy.  blue flashback tee for Hugo

I added a little pocket, which is completely cosmetic and totally not useful (like pockets in baby pants. what are those for anyway? storing their baby credit cards?), but in my opinion make it 100% cuter. I really must show you my easy-peasy knit pocket trick someday.

blue flashback tee for Hugo

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Are you ready for a Beatrixalong?


The Beatrix Sewalong is now underway!
If this is your first time landing here, it’s not too late to join in. We’re taking a full eight days to sew Beatrix, and I’ll put links to each new post here as we move through the week. For this sewalong, I’m making a short-sleeved View A as shown in the image above. This is the simplest version of the pattern (View B has more pieces) so it’s a great place to start if you’re new to garment sewing, and the short sleeve is perfect for summer!

Here’s the Beatrixalong schedule:
I’ve mapped this out so you can work slowly, taking about 30-60 minutes each day.

Introduction – Gather your materials (today’s post, scroll down)
Day 1: Friday, July 10 Measure and Print
Day 2: Saturday, July 11
Trace pattern and Make a muslin
Day 3: Sunday, July 12
– Cut and prep
Day 4: Monday, July 13
Sew darts, shoulders seams, and side seams
Day 5: Tuesday, July 14
– Sleeves
Day 6: Wednesday, July 15 –
 Prep and attach facings
Day 7: Thursday, July 16 –
Hemming and button placket finishing
Day 8: Friday, July 17
Buttonholes and buttons

Other links:
Bust Adjustment: How to shorten or lengthen a dart
Beatrixalong Roundup
The official Beatrixalong page
How to make a Beatrix View A with the View B button placket

Ready to join me? Here’s what you need to get started:

Get the pattern: Here it is in my pattern shop! Download and save it to your computer. No need to print yet — I’ll discuss this on Day 1!

Gather your materials: fabric, lightweight fusible interfacing, six buttons (1/2″ or 3/8″ are a nice size), and some thread. You can see the suggested fabrics, materials list, and yardage chart (look at View A, short-sleeve, for the yardage needed for this one) by going to the Beatrix shop page and clicking on the “materials” tab.


Just a quick note about fabric selection: If this is your first time making a Beatrix top, I’d recommend not only making a muslin before you cut into any lovely apparel fabric (I’ll talk about making a muslin on Day 2), but also starting with fabric that isn’t your most very favorite and best. Even when I’m confident about what size I need in a pattern, I like to make my first version of that pattern with fabric I’m not completely in love with, just in case it doesn’t come out exactly as planned. I posted a couple of years ago about My Top Five Fabrics for Clothing if you’d like to explore your options.

Gather your equipment: You’ll need a sewing shears, sewing machine and needles, pins (I also like wonder clips), a seam ripper, a fabric marking pen or chalk, iron and ironing board for the actual sewing part. For cutting, I like to use a rotary cutter, ruler, and mat, but you can definitely get by with just your shears. You’ll also need a measuring tape, paper-friendly scissors (or trimmer) and tape to assemble the pattern, and a pencil and tracing paper to trace your pattern pieces.

Get your space ready: replace your needle, thread your machine (bonus points if you clean it out too), and clear a cutting space. Set up your iron and ironing board close by. If there’s any way to keep this space cleared out for a few days so you can sew from start to finish, even better.Made By Rae prepare your sewing space

Wash your fabric: If you plan to wash and dry your finished top, you’ll need to wash and dry your fabric before you start. Use a serger or zig-zag stitch along the cut edges of your fabric to prevent it from fraying during washing!

Read the pattern instructions: It’s always a good idea to give the instructions a good read-through before you get started!Made By Rae Beatrix sewing pattern

There’s no need to print out your pattern pages yet; I’m going to discuss how to print and assemble your pattern pages once we figure out what size you need.

Sign up to receive my blog posts via email: You can use this handy signup form to get all my blog updates directly in your inbox. You can also sign up for notifications anytime by using the little form at the top right of the blog. (Please note: if you’re joining us after the sewalong ends, please follow along using the links above!)

If you’re sewing along with me, please take photos as you go and post them to Twitter, Facebook, or Instagram using the hashtag #beatrixalong! I will do my best to respond to your comments, questions, and posts.

Go to Day 1

Beatrix is Here!

I’m so pleased to introduce my newest sewing pattern, Beatrix!! I’m over the moon about this new pattern, and I’m so happy to share it with you.

Made By Rae Beatrix Sewing Pattern


Beatrix is a button-back pullover with a simple silhouette that is both comfortable and flattering. With two views that offer different sleeve lengths, button placket options, and a shirttail or banded hem, this is a truly versatile pattern for woven fabrics.

Beatrix is available in six women’s sizes (XS-XXL), and comes with separate front bodice pieces for A/B cup and C/D cup sizes so you can choose the one that works best for you.

I’ve put together a Beatrix Page where you can find all of the blog posts and related tutorials (coming soon!) for Beatrix. There are additional photos of Beatrix in the shop. You’ll find all the charts for sizes, finished measurements, and yardage in the shop listing too. Beatrix uses a couple of techniques that might be a little intimidating to a beginner (a set-in sleeve and buttonholes), so I’m hoping to do a sewalong for Beatrix soon so you can see additional photos and tips to help you along. Stay tuned!!!

I’d love to see what you make with the Beatrix Pattern! Please post pictures of your finished Beatrix Tops and Dresses to the Beatrix Sewing Pattern Pool on Flickr and use the hashtags #beatrixpattern#madebyrae, or #raemademedoit on Instagram and Twitter to share your photos and see what others have made!

Batik BeatrixBatik BeatrixButtonless BeatrixButtonless BeatrixButtonless BeatrixButtonless Beatrix

Posted in Beatrix

Beatrix with Flying Geese

Made By Rae Beatrix in Alison Glass Handcrafted

The Beatrix Sewing Pattern is now available! BUY NOW

Yes, I keep posting Beatrix Tops but no pattern-is-here post. I’m stringing you along. It’s cruel, I know. But isn’t this a pretty top? The fabric is Alison Glass‘ beautiful red Geese print from her first Handcrafted line from Andover; I also made a short-sleeved Beatrix from this same line of fabric. The name “Geese” is in reference to “flying geese,” those stacked triangles you always see in quilts, so we’ve been calling this top the Flying Geese Top. Which seems somehow grammatically incorrect now (Flying Goose Top? No, that can’t be right if there are multiple geese…?). Anyway. Let’s move on.

Made By Rae Beatrix in Alison Glass Handcrafted

Made By Rae Beatrix in Alison Glass Handcrafted

This was originally intended to be a sample for the cover of the pattern but then I ran into a small issue with the print; it turned out that the placement of those beautiful, randomly-placed, hand-printed triangles was just slightly lower on one side than the other, resulting in a “cockeyed headlights” effect at the bust if you catch my drift and if you don’t let’s just say the asymmetry wasn’t flattering and leave it at that. Ahem. Hence, a lovely patch pocket was added over the left bust. It was easy to add the pocket and it fixed the visual mindgames I was having when I looked in the mirror, but a pocket isn’t included in the final pattern, so we didn’t end up using this one for the pattern cover. In all other ways besides the pocket, however, this is a straight-up View A, and of course I think it shows off the fit quite nicely. You can take a look at this handy Beatrix Yardage post for more information about the two views and their yardage requirements if you’d like.

Made By Rae Beatrix in Alison Glass Handcrafted

Looking at these photos makes me miss my long hair and pink extensions a little bit. My hair is short and blue now so that works for summer but the grass is always greener, as they say. Or pinker? OK, well I’m off to proofread the final instruction layout for Beatrix so we can have it out to you next week!! Am crossing all fingers and toes in hope that it will finally be ready!

The Beatrix Sewing Pattern is now available! BUY NOW

Posted in Beatrix

Beatrix Yardage and Fabric Recommendations

As we put finishing touches on the Beatrix Top pattern, I thought I’d give you some yardage and fabric guidelines so you can gather your supplies now to get sewing RIGHT AWAY as soon as the pattern comes out!

The Beatrix Sewing Pattern is now available! BUY NOW

First find your size. If your measurements put you between sizes, use your upper bust and bust to select your size. If those still put you between sizes, subtract one from the other to find the difference between your upper bust and bust measurements. If the difference is 2″ (5 cm) or less, use your bust measurement to select your size; if it’s greater than 2″ (5 cm), use your upper bust measurement to select your size. The pattern has two front bodices for all six sizes to accommodate A/B and C/D bra cup sizes, so you’ll get all the guidance you need before you start cutting out your fabric!

Made By Rae Beatrix Size Chart
Now get your yardage. The chart includes yardage for fabric widths of 44″ and 54″, and accounts for shrinkage from pre-washing and drying (always pre-wash your fabric!). See notes and photos below to help you decide whether you’d like to sew View A or B (or a combo of the two).

Made By Rae Beatrix Yardage

Beatrix Views
Choose your fabric. I recommend woven lightweight cotton and linen blends such as voile, rayon challis, shot cotton, shirting, double gauze, lawn, broadcloth, and lightweight chambray. There are tons of wonderful apparel fabrics available these days, and I can’t wait to see what you all choose. Here’s a list of the fabrics I used for all the versions of Beatrix that I’ve blogged about so far. Since some of my tops have been mashups of View A and View B, I’ve included details to help you get the right amount of fabric.

Beatrix in Alison Glass Plus Print (above, left) is a true View A with short sleeves. It’s sewn from the Handcrafted line by Alison Glass. The Plus in Shortbread print is in stock at Hawthorne Threads, along with some great prints from both lines of Handcrafted!

Voile Beatrix with contrast bands (above, right) is a true View B in which the contrast bands are cut from the same fabric on the crossgrain. It is sewn from Pastry Line Voile in Toast by Anna Maria Horner. Pink Castle Fabrics and Fiddlehead Artisan Supply both have it in stock.
Made By Rae Beatrix Tops

Bespoke Double Gauze Blouse (above, left) is a View A with short sleeves. It’s sewn from Cotton+Steel’s Bespoke Double Gauze, and Hawthorne Threads has a number of prints and solids from that line in stock. The print I used is Ephemera in the colorway Mustard.

Let’s have a (Beatrix) Party (above, middle) is a short-sleeved View A, with a contrast button placket borrowed from View B. Get the yardage you’d need for a short-sleeved View A, plus about a 1/2 yard of contrast fabric for the button placket. This top is sewn from the True Colors print in Avril Loreti’s Let’s Have a Party voile for Cloud9 FabricsFancy Tiger has some of the prints from that line, as well as a number of other voiles and lawns.

The Original Beatrix plaid top (above, right) is a View A with 3/4-length sleeves; it’s sewn from a lightweight plaid lawn that I picked up locally.

Thanks for your patience! The days before we release a pattern are filled with final pattern piece checks and obsessively going over the instructions with eagle eyes. Just imagine me scurrying about the studio waving around a tape measure!

The Beatrix Sewing Pattern is now available! BUY NOW

Posted in Beatrix

Let’s have a (Beatrix) party!

Made By Rae Beatrix in Let's Have a Party

The Beatrix Sewing Pattern is now available! BUY NOW

My multi-week Beatrix Tease oops I meant Beatrix Preview (go ahead and put that in air quotes) continues today with this stunning voile version that I’ve been wearing all over the place lately. The fabric is from the Let’s Have a Party collection by Avril Loreti for Cloud 9 with a matching coral Cirrus Solid button band in back (full disclaimer: I made Cloud 9 a duplicate of this top for their Quilt Market booth in trade for the fabric. I am also a Cloud 9 designer). I’m so glad that these fun, bright, and cheerful prints are printed on voile; it makes them absolutely perfect for lightweight breezy summer garments.

Made By Rae Beatrix in Let's Have a Party

I was working on getting the length right when we sewed this one, so the hem is roughly 1″ longer than the final pattern will be; it’s hard to see why this matters in the photos because I happen to be really tall, but if you could see the photos some of the more average-height testers sent, it would be obvious to you why I decided to make it shorter.

IMG_3230 - Version 2

Made By Rae Beatrix in Let's Have a Party

The buttons are made of coconut (!?!) and came from Fashion Sewing Supply, a shop that if you’re not already familiar with you need to be if only for their awesome high-quality garment elastic and interfacings. Pam Erny runs it and does a fantastic job. Put that one in your browser bookmarks under “Sewing Supplies.” You’ll never buy waistband elastic anywhere else again. You’re welcome.


Made By Rae Beatrix in Let's Have a Party

Pattern coming soon…seriously. Many people have already asked me for the yardage requirements, so I’ll try to post that soon so you can know how much fabric to buy. Meanwhile, while you’re waiting you can check out the other versions of Beatrix I’ve made so far. And if you have questions about the buttons in the back, please read the comments on this post before joining in the discussion!

The Beatrix Sewing Pattern is now available! BUY NOW

Posted in Beatrix