Ruby with a washi sleeve


One of the most common questions I got when the Ruby Dress pattern came out this summer was “can you add a sleeve to it?” It was hard for me to say “not yet!” but I knew that we had two new gathered sleeves coming out in both the Washi Expansion Pack and the Josephine pattern (we’re working on it!) that would work nicely with Ruby. I finally had a chance to test the Washi XP sleeve out on this Ruby top (fabric is Anna Maria Horner’s Field Study rayon challis) and it worked great!


I love a gathered sleeve because the generous fit means it’s comfortable, and it’s easy to sew because it will fit just about any armhole. Because I love to mix and match when I sew for myself, rather than making the same thing over and over (hence Washi XP), it made sense to design a sleeve that will be interchangeable with all of my patterns. At some point I would like to make an ungathered, fitted sleeve too, but I really prefer the gathered sleeve right now. Anyway, this is one step closer to my dream of creating a portfolio of women’s patterns that all work well together so you can make endless variations.


So you can see that I took these photos a while back, when I was about 12 weeks pregnant…not much of a belly to show for myself there yet! (Now? There’s no hiding it)


To add a Washi XP sleeve to Ruby (and this will work with the Josephine sleeve as well), you simply sew the entire dress or top together up to the side seam step, then gather the top of the sleeve between the marks and sew it to the armhole. Once the sleeve is attached, you can finish the side seams and hem the dress and sleeve, and you’re done. Pretty simple! It’s a bit more difficult to add a sleeve AND a lining for the Ruby yoke, but it can be done. If you really want to try this, you might want to email me first so I can send you a little step-by-step.


By the way, probably the second most common question I get about the Ruby is “can it be made with knits?” We added knits to the list of recommended fabrics for the main part of the Ruby, but not the yoke, with the idea that the yoke really shouldn’t be made from knits unless it’s a super-stable (non-stretchy) knit. It makes sense right? If your yoke stretches out, the whole top is going to look kinda saggy. So the answer is, yes, Ruby can be made with knit fabrics, but shoot for less stretchy knits like interlock or jerseys with less stretch to avoid getting a saggy yoke and armhole.

21 thoughts on “Ruby with a washi sleeve

  1. What a great top! Love the lace. I plan to do a Ruby in eyelet for the spring. We’re moving to Ann Arbor in the summer…I’m thinking everything will need sleeves!

  2. damn that is so hot. I love it. I can see myself wearing this endlessly. Now just to verify that I actually printed the ruby pieces or not and get to work!

  3. I’ve made two Ruby tops already but love the new look with the sleeve! But can I just put my hand up and say I actually really, really love a fitted sleeve too? Would be great to see that down the track.

  4. I love the lace panel at the top, where did you get that fabric? It is gorgeous with the field study, you are very inspirational!

  5. This is absolutely adorable! I would wear this style all the time! I love the lace yoke too! Can you tell me how much yardage in the Washi sleeves? I couldn’t find it on the XP page…

    • 3/4 yard 🙂 I think the pattern pieces are 23″ tall, and you can fit two side by side across 44″ fabric.

  6. I am so interested in making myself some tops from your patterns, but I wonder how they would look with a lower neckline. I always feel like I’m adding bulk to my chest when the neck is higher up like your tops are. They are so lovely. What do you think?

    • Hi Amber!

      I think you could definitely cut the neckline lower and it would be cute!! With Ruby, you have to be careful not to get too close to the bottom of the yoke, but Jess made a Josephine top with a scooped out neck and it looked really really cute!

      Washi also has a scoop neck, but I’ve scooped it out even lower before (1″) and that looks great too! 🙂

    • You should give it a try, Amber! Definitely give it a go with a muslin *first* though. And let us know how it turns out!

  7. Hi – I bought your Ruby dress pattern a few months ago – I love it!
    Now I want to sew a new one with sleeves (winter is coming…). Do I have to buy the Washi XP pattern in order to get the sleeve pattern? Or is it for free because of my previous purchase?
    Thank you

  8. Hello, I have everything I need to make a few Ruby dresses now and want to add an ungathered/fitted sleeve. I’m thinking of using the sleeve from your Beatrix pattern–would they be compatible?

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