Washi Dress Expansion Pack is Here!


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When the original Washi Dress Sewing Pattern was released over a year ago in August 2012, I was blown away by the response to the pattern. BLOWN. AWAY. Washi was the first women’s pattern I ever released, with the idea that I wanted to produce a flattering dress pattern for women that would work with cottons and not just apparel fabrics. I had no idea so many people would like it. I still sometimes have to pinch myself over how many of you have purchased the pattern, how many Washis have been made and are being worn out there, and how great it looks on so many different figures! I really have to give you, dear readers, credit for pushing me to put it out there in the first place. Your feedback and encouragement fueled my decision to go for it, and this is really going to sound cheesy, but I don’t think I would have done it without you.

When I started making variations on Washi last year that included sleeves and collars and bows and linings (see below for a roundup of all of them), you asked for those too. The patterns I work on have always been driven by reader demand — I mean, why spend time working on anything other than the ones you guys are crazy about? — so I’m happy to finally be able to say that the long-awaited Washi Expansion Pack is NOW AVAILABLE as a separate add-on so you can create so many more great options with your original pattern!!! Woot woot! *does Kermit Arms*

The Washi Expansion Pack is a PDF SUPPLEMENT to the original Washi Dress pattern (which is currently available in six women’s sizes, in both PDF and print) and will allow you to make a number of new Washi variations using a combination of original pattern pieces and new expansion pack pattern pieces.

PLEASE READ THIS: This pack is not a stand-alone pattern, in other words, you will need both the expansion pack AND the original pattern to be able to create the looks included. You can also purchase them together HERE.

We’ve divided all of the new variation possibilities up into three views, all of which can be made as either a dress or tunic. Of course they can be combined as well; for instance, if you wanted the sleeve from View B and a big bow from View A. Here are the basic views included in the Expansion Pack:


View A: A sleeveless variation with a big bow; this view features an easy back elastic casing for those who would prefer to skip the shirring in the original pattern.

In addition to the base yardage for the original Washi Dress (see size and yardage charts on the Washi Page), you will need:
• 1/2 yard additional yardage for the large bow pieces and armhole bias strips
• 1/2 yard of 1″- or 1.25″-wide elastic for back

For this view, I recommend that you select a fabric with a bit of structure, such as quilting cotton, a linen blend, or cotton voile/lawn. High-drape fabrics such as silk or rayon may produce a more shapeless result around the neckline, since the bow folds over itself around the neck to form a collar.


View B: A sweet version with sleeves and little bow!

In addition to the base yardage for the original Washi Dress (see size and yardage charts on the Washi Page), you will need:
• 3/4 yard additional yardage for sleeves, bow facings and bow
• 1/4 yard (or small piece) lightweight fusible interfacing
• 2/3 yard 1/4″-wide elastic for sleeves (if you want a casing)
• elastic thread for shirring the sleeves (if you want your sleeves shirred at the cuff) and back

For this view, lightweight or high-drape fabrics such as silk, voile, lawn, 100% linen, or rayon work well, because of the gathered sleeve and skirt on this version. Fabrics with more structure won’t gather as nicely and will “stand up” more at the sleeve cap. If you do choose to make this version with a structured fabric, you may want to reduce the width of the sleeve by 1⁄2″ to 1″ at the fold to prevent the sleeve cap from looking too full at the top.


View C: A Peter Pan collar version with optional pointed sleeves and two great collars to choose from. This view also includes pattern pieces and detailed instructions for a bodice lining (you can see videos on this technique here as well)!

In addition to the base yardage for the original Washi Dress (see size and yardage charts on the Washi Page), you will need:
• 1/2 yard additional yardage for collar and optional pointed cap sleeves
• 1 yard fabric for bodice linings (or less; size M and smaller may be able to fit the pieces side-by-side on 1/2 yard)
• 1/2 yard lightweight fusible interfacing
• 1/2 yard 1″ or 1.25″-wide elastic for back

For this view, I recommend that you select a medium weight fabric with a bit of structure for the collar, such as quilting cotton, a linen blend, or poplin. Lightweight or high-drape fabrics such as silk, voile, lawn, 100% linen, or rayon may make it harder to get a nicely shaped collar. The collar is designed to roll a bit at the neckline, rather than sit completely flat against the dress, so structure helps.

The 49-page Expansion Pack eBook Includes:

  • full-sized pattern pieces for linings, bows, collars, and two different sleeves, as well as an adapted bodice piece (with different armholes for sleeveless or sleeves, and a new front center seam that could potentially be adapted for nursing!)
  • 26 pages of rock solid full-color instructions along with plenty of tips and hints
  • a special two-page “Seam Finishes Appendix” with instructions for my favorite seam finishes

One of the best things this pattern pack has to offer is clear, step-by-step instructions on how to add all of these new features to your Washi Dress. While the original pattern was intended for confident beginners, it’s safe to say that the techniques in the expansion pack are intermediate to advanced, but I think you’ll find enough here to help hold your hand through the entire process. And of course, you know how to reach me if you ever need to email with a question!

OK, are you ready for Washi XP?!?!


Washi Dress Expansion Pack PDF (does not include original pattern)

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And now for more Washi XP inspiration!

I’ve featured all of the variations available in this expansion pack in the past on my blog along with a few others that are similar. Here are the versions I’ve made, along with a few notes, so you can make each one for yourself:


Top Row:
Pale Pink Linen Top – this features the curved peterpan collar of View C, with the addition of an extra pleat in the bodice (pleat not included in the expansion pack).
Time for Tea Dress – View C from the expansion pack, with curved collar and no sleeve.
Liberty Tie Top – a tunic featuring the big bow and bias bound armholes from View A. The bow piece has been shortened just to tie in a knot.

Middle Row:
Tsuru Washi with a Bow – View A from the expansion pack
Hello Pilgrim! – this dress pre-dated the Washi Dress, but a similar look may be achieved by using a shortened big bow from View A and the cap sleeve from the original Washi Dress pattern, or the pointed cap sleeves of View C in the expansion pack.
Ruby Star Washi Dress – this was the first Washi Dress I made with sleeves; this link provides a tutorial with a free pattern piece for a full sleeve; please note that the sleeve in View B of the Expansion Pack is narrower and has a more tailored fit than the sleeve I used for my Ruby Star Washi.

Bottom Row:
Another Washi Dress with a Big Bow – features the big bow of View A and the sleeves from View B in a dress version.
Pink Washi Top with a Little Bow – View B from the expansion pack
Bird Dress with Pointed Collar and Sleeve – View C from the expansion pack, with pointed collar and sleeve.

I hope you will enjoy this new expansion pack and have a ton of fun with it! I hope to do a tutorial specific to the collar (View C) very soon, but let me know if you have other Washi-XP-related requests. Enjoy!!!

28 thoughts on “Washi Dress Expansion Pack is Here!

  1. Geez, dude, it’s like 20 patterns in one! Awesome, congratulations! Can’t wait to sew a few of these bad boys up someday when I’m back to somewhat normal size. That pointed peter pan collar/sleeve version is calling me.

  2. Maternity Washi shirt/tunic/dress! Would LOVE to see more maternity patterns/versions of patterns in woven fabric (don’t love the clingy so much). I’ve tried to wing it with maternity makes (men’s shirt into maternity shirt, anyone??.), but I really need patterns. I’m due with my second in Feb, but plan to have more (just not anytime soon!!), so no rush, but please keep maternity patterns on your Rae-dar!

  3. Thank you, Rae! I am so excited to make a new Washi (for Christmas if I can squeeze it in). I bought and downloaded the expansion immediately.

  4. Yay Washi XP!! You are so very rad. Looks like there’s an early Christmas present in my future… a winter washi to me, from me!

  5. I have been waiting for that pack!
    My fabric is ready to go… I’m buying it now 🙂
    Thanks so much, I’m excited to start sewing.

    I wish you great success with this expansion pack.
    I’m sure so many people like me are going to buy it.

  6. How do i buy this for a gift? It gets delivered to my paypal email but i would be buying it for someone else.

  7. Oh darn. I have been waiting for this to come out, but decided to go ahead and make the original Washi again (4th time). Yesterday. That night, I went online and saw the expansion was just released. 🙂 Ha. Time to make another! So excited!

    Also, fifty thousand pleases and begs for making this available to sell with a license. 🙂

  8. Hi Rae-This pack is sooo timely. At 63 (and MUCH bigger than I was at 43, due to chronic health issues) I was desperate for a flattering dress (I live exclusively in pants/jeans….:-/ ) for Christmas. I’ve long admired the Washi dress, so I made up a toile in some fabric that wasn’t a favourite (it has turned out to look sensational- of course!) with many fitting changes (I’m bigger than your largest size, and needed an FBA). With the dress now fitting beautifully, I made it up in the special cotton voile and I feel like a princess!!!!
    I encourage any women who are older and larger than the beautiful girls who are mostly the Washi’s wearers to give it a go…..you’ll be so glad you did! Thank you from the bottom of my heart, for making a dress that makes all of us look gorgeous.

  9. I’d like to make a Washi for my mother-of-the/groom dress.
    I don’t understand how the PDF pattern would be full size? And are all sizes included? I love your XP!! The Peter Pan collar will make my dress look adorable.

  10. Just saw the Washi dress in the newest STITCH publication and am ordering it pronto. JUST what I was looking for. I purchased some terrific cotton at Mood in NYC and it’ll be perfect for my new dress. Also thrilled to see the additional pattern where I can include sleeves.

  11. Someone mentioned having some maternity options… I can’t wear my washi dresses when I’m nursing (and I nurse for at least a year!) I miss wearing them. Can you design some sort of button placket we can button it down to nurse? None of that double layer stuff… Please consider it. There is a serious lack of nursing patters that looke cute! 🙂 thanks!!!

  12. I am buying this right now! Along with a few other patterns. I am so excited! I also am currently pregnant and agree with previous posters. Please make more maternity patterns, with nursing options, and the Washi a sellers license. Pretty please?

    Thanks so much!

  13. Love this pattern. There is so much you can do with it. I am going to buy it as soon as I get some money on my paypal. I have been looking for a simple dress to wear in this 104° Southern California weather. When I found this pattern it was everything I wanted and more.

    Thank you,

  14. This pattern looks super cute! Would it be appropriate for a beginner sewer or should I build my skills/confidence a little before attempting to make it?

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