Summer cropped tops

These four tops have been my most-worn this summer, not just with the high-waisted jeans shown here (eco toothpick from JCrew… it really has been quite a cool summer) but also other high-waisted handmades such as Rose shorts and my white silk noil Cleo skirt, not shown. First up: a cropped Gemma tank.

fabric: Double gauze Atelier Brunette, purchased Oak Fabrics
pattern: Gemma tank (see also:tutorial for cropping Gemma)

Next up, three cropped Emerald tops, turns out this is the boxy cropped top of my dreams. The first one I just cut the pattern horizontally about 10 inches below the armhole, then hemmed it up:

cropped Emerald top / made by rae

Fabric: Alexia Abegg’s Sienna rayon, purchased from Imagine Gnats
Pattern: modified Emerald Dress, available in Making Desert issue

This one was the first Emerald top I made out of green double gauze, not cut on the bias as the pattern indicates, just on grain. This one gets rumply and wrinkled when it’s washed which is how I wear it. I curved the hem which got a bit tricky to turn so for the next one one, I drafted a curved hem facing piece.

Fabric: Kobayashi double gauze, purchased at Pink Castle Fabrics
Pattern: modified Emerald Dress, available in Making Desert issue

cropped Emerald top / made by rae

Fabric: Avery slub viscose-linen, purchased from Shop La Mercerie
Pattern: modified Emerald Dress, available in Making Desert issue

The top version will definitely be included in the pattern when release it in the pattern shop; since it released as a dress pattern this past spring in Making, it’s been quite popular and we’ve had a bunch of requests to release it as a standalone pattern. Once we’ve satisfied the Making contract period we would be happy to release this on its own. For now, you’ll have to buy a copy of the magazine to get the pattern!

PS. Read more tips and info about that slub linen blend (one of our faves!) in this post!

Emerald Dress for Making Magazine

It’s always fun to reveal a project that’s been in the works behind the scenes for a long time. This week, Making Magazine released its 7th issue, DESERT, a print magazine full of beautiful handmade projects, articles, stunning photography and artwork. The projects include sewing and knitting, among other things, and I’m happy to announce that a brand-new Made by Rae pattern is included in this gorgeous issue!

Emerald Dress / made by rae for MAKING magazine

Introducing…the Emerald Dress!

Emerald Dress / made by rae for MAKING magazine

Designed for woven fabrics and cut on the bias, this dress has a simple silhouette that drapes beautifully. I love how Emerald fits into the DESERT theme. When I designed this dress, I envisioned it with sandals for hot weather or layered with sweaters for cooler nights.

The breezy design, V-shaped neckline, curved hem, and pockets (!!) make it the perfect piece to add to a handmade wardrobe for spring and summer.

Emerald Dress / made by rae for MAKING magazine

This dress is simple and versatile: make it in linen or ikat for a casual summer shift; or try a silk or viscose for summer evenings out on the town. 

Sizes run from XXS to 2X, with plenty of ease to accommodate different body shapes and sizes. Try more or less positive ease for different looks.

Visit made-by-rae.com/Emerald for links to the size charts, yardage, and materials. Note: I’ve included a generous amount of ease in this design (8″ of hip ease and 5″ of bust ease relative to the body measurements), so the pattern pieces can comfortably fit up to about a 54″ hip / 51″ bust if you don’t mind a little less ease.

Emerald Dress / made by rae for MAKING magazine

At this time, Emerald is only available through purchase of the print DESERT issue or subscription to Making magazine; the print-at-home PDF pattern pieces are available with the issue via a download link.

While I do plan to make Emerald available eventually as a PDF pattern — Making generously allows their artists to sell standalone patterns from the issues after their contract period is up — please know that while this might be as early as this fall, we do not have a concrete launch date for this pattern at this time. I completely understand that many of you might not be able to obtain Making in your country or want to purchase a print publication that includes knitting patterns, and I truly appreciate your patience and understanding that we cannot make this available immediately as a PDF (and a big thank you to all of you who have sent me emails asking about this!! I’m so glad you love this pattern!!). We’ll be sure to keep you posted once the digital pattern is available on its own.

Here at Made by Rae we believe strongly in the importance of print publication and supporting the work of artists like the ones who create Making and we know you do too. Creating beautiful objects of value that people can hold in their hands is something I want to be a part of, so I am thrilled to be a contributor to this project. I hope you will love this new issue of Making, and Emerald, as much as I do!

You can purchase the DESERT issue of Making or find a local shop that carries it through the Making website.

VISIT THE MAKING WEBSITE

PS. I love to see your makes online; be sure to tag me so I won’t miss them!
#madebyrae | @madebyrae | #mbrEmerald

Super fun facings trick

super fun facings trick

Facings are a great way to finish a neckline or armhole (bias binding is another way — see my 3 bias binding tutorials here!). I like to have beautiful facings without having to fold up and finish the lower edge, which can produce a visible line from the outside of your garment, and I learned this clever trick a few years ago (probably from Karen) and thought I’d share. It uses your interfacing to finish the facing edge, and it’s just as quick and easy as folding and stitching or overlocking your facings like most patterns instruct. It also looks 100% better, as you’ll see in this tutorial.

Step 1. Cut out your facings and interfacings

The front / back neckline facing pattern pieces I used in this example are from my Beatrix pattern. You can see these facings in use in my How to make Beatrix without buttons tutorial. This tutorial would also work with most armhole, hem, or combined armhole-neckline facings as well.

I’m using fusible lightweight interfacing (this is the kind I like), but this tutorial also works with non-fusible interfacing.

Beatrix facings

Step 2. Sew the seams

Most patterns call for you to baste or fuse the interfacing to the facings before sewing anything. Instead, sew the front and back facings together, and then do the same with the interfacings (so, separately). In this example, I sewed the facings together at the shoulders, and then the interfacings together at the shoulders using the 1/2″ seam allowance called for in the pattern.

f1940224

Press the facing seams apart, but DO NOT PRESS THE INTERFACING SEAM IF YOU ARE USING FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Let’s avoid that sticky glue nightmare on your iron, shall we?

Step 3. Sew the facings to the interfacings along lower edge

Place the facings and interfacings right sides together and pin:

f1759232

Then sew them together along the lower edge with a 1/4″ seam allowance. This should be the edge where you would normally fold up and stitch, or otherwise finish the edge of the facing before attaching it to the garment. It should not be the edge that will attach to the garment.

Beatrix facings - sew together

Step 4. Turn right side out and press

Now go ahead and turn them right side out, using a point turner to push out the bottom edges.

beatrix facings

And then press them together!!! At this point the fusible interfacing will fuse to the facing, and it creates a beautiful finish…see? Here’s the interfacing side:

f1844736

And the facing side:

f1838336

Step 5. Attach to garment

Now the facings are ready to attach to your garment! You can see how I attached these in this post.

Finished facings - Beatrix

Aren’t they beautiful?

This tutorial works great with my Beatrix, Washi, or even Charlie sewing patterns. Have you ever tried this trick?

Best garment interfacings. Evar.

Here’s a tip I end up sharing with other garment sewists all. the. time: I get my interfacings from Pam Erny at Fashion Sewing Supply. These are hands down my very favorite interfacings for garment sewing (and just in case you’re new to sewing, fusible interfacing gets used for everything from waistbands to facings to stabilizing curved seams and button plackets).

Best interfacings. Evar.

There are definitely more readily-available interfacing brands (like Pellon) at big-box craft stores, but I haven’t had the best luck with those when I use them for sewing clothes; the fusible interfacings — even the lightest ones — tend to bubble away from the garment for me after it gets washed.

Pam sells a bunch of different weights, white, black, fusible, non-fusible, shirt-making, she even has stretch interfacings for knits. YES. etc. I’d suggest ordering the sample pack if you want to get a sense for all of the different types (Pam also includes a full-page info sheet with the care and application instructions for each one with every order, so that’s helpful), but you really can’t go wrong with the Pro-Sheer Elegance Light.

Like every other awesome sewing thing I know about, this source comes via my friend Karen, who always has some newfangled tool or tip because she’s basically a walking sewing encyclopedia (Sidenote: Karen just moved to Seattle this summer, so we can’t work together in the studio anymore…waaaaaaah!!! PNW, I’m super jealous you have her now). Karen also claims you can fuse multiple layers on top of each other for a thicker interfacing, but I’ve never tried this out.

PS. This is NOT a sponsored post. Oh! Just realized that Pam did once send me a discount code, so I probably am a bit biased, so there, full disclosure. Seriously though, these are the best garment interfacings I’ve used, and even though you have to order them online I think you’ll like them too. Just wanted to share it with you!

PPS. This site is also where I buy my favorite elastic for kids’ clothes — they’re super soft and stretchy.

How to print and assemble a PDF sewing pattern

how to print and assemble a PDF pattern

It still surprises me sometimes to discover that many people have never used (or even heard of) a PDF sewing pattern. Occasionally I’ll get an email from someone who has purchased one of my patterns and needs some assistance figuring out what on earth to do with it once they’ve bought it.

So here’s a step by step primer to help you get from purchasing to sewing with your PDF sewing pattern! Even if you’ve used a PDF pattern before, you might pick up some pointers in this post.

Step 1. Download and save your pattern file
After you purchase a PDF pattern, you’ll be directed to a download link, you’ll get an email with a download link, or both (this is how it works in my pattern shop). Click on the link to download your pattern file to your computer. Once you’ve downloaded the file, open it from your downloads folder and save it in a private folder where you can find it again later (usually this requires going to “File -> Save As” and selecting a different folder or creating a new folder).

The beauty of a PDF pattern is that you can use it over and over and it never gets worn out. But it is not the responsibility of the pattern maker to hang on to your pattern for you. And…it’s a bit of a hassle to have to email the designer later to ask for a resend, right? SO TAKE A SECOND AND SAVE YOUR FILE!

Once you save your file, you can bring the pattern file to a copy or print shop (drag it over to a USB drive, or upload it to the print shop’s website) to be printed on wide-format paper. If you go the copy shop route, be sure to read my post: how to use a copyshop file. If you are printing at home, continue!

Step 2. Print a test page
First, open your file in a PDF reader such as Adobe Acrobat or Preview for Mac. Do not print directly from the browser window after you download the file; instead, reopen the pattern in a PDF viewer before printing.

Then set your printer to print just the first page at 100% (or “No Scaling” or “None” for scaling). This step is OH SO CRITICAL. If you print the pattern at the wrong scale, your garment will not fit!

Here’s a screenshot of what the print preview (in Preview for Mac) looks like for me:

print-at-home PDF pattern

If the percentage is a number other than 100%, change it to 100%!

Step 3. Check Scale
My newer patterns have scale marks along every pattern piece page borders at 1-inch intervals (a few of the older ones have a scale box with labeled dimensions) so you can check the scale of each page. Place your ruler or use a cutting mat to check these marks. In the photo below, they line up nicely. Another way to check is along the length of the page: the long edge should be exactly 10″ or 254 cm.

Print and check scale

Step 4. Print the rest of the pattern
When you are absolutely sure the scale is right, choose the remaining pages indicated for the size and version of the pattern you’re making, and set the print dialog again to print at 100% (I always forget the second time!) and print the rest of the pattern pages.

Step 5. Trim Edges
Now use scissors or a paper trimmer to remove the print margins on the TOP and LEFT edges of each page.

Beatrixalong Day 1

Step 6. Assemble the pattern
Place the pages together as shown in the pattern assembly diagram so that the circles in the corners (or in some patterns, the black triangles) line up nicely. If you go from left to right and top to bottom, like you’re reading a book, each page you set down will cover up the print margin from the previous page.

Beatrixalong Day 1

Step 7. Tape it together
Finally, tape it all together, making sure the edges stay straight! For very large patterns, I often tape each row together first, then tape the rows together to assemble the entire pattern.

Beatrixalong Day 1

Now your pattern is ready to trace! I always recommend tracing a pattern rather than cutting into it. Take a look at my How to trace a pattern post if you need a quick how-to!

This post is part of my Building a Handmade Wardrobe Series, a set of posts to help you get from start to finish with one of my patterns.

How to take body measurements

how to take body measurements / made by rae

The very first thing that every single person should do before they sew a piece a piece of clothing for themselves is take out a tape measure and get some good, honest body measurements. In this post I’ll go over how to take the four body measurements that you’ll need to choose the right size to sew with one of my sewing patterns.

The problem with body measurements
Unfortunately, many of us would prefer to skip this step. It seems easier just to pick a size, maybe guess a little bit based on the size chart. We’ve also learned to associate measuring ourselves with negative feelings about our bodies instead of seeing the measuring tape as an empowering tool that can allow us to custom-tailor our clothing to fit and flatter our beautiful bodies. While I can’t instill a sense of love for your body — only you can do that — I hope I can impress upon you the importance of viewing your measurements as the first step to sewing something for yourself that you can be proud of. One of the great things about sewing your own clothing is that you don’t have to put a size tag in the back of something you make. No matter what size pattern piece you use, making yourself a piece of clothing that fits — not too tight, not too loose — feels empowering, no matter what your size or shape.

Can’t I just skip this and use my ready-to-wear size instead?
OK, let’s say you decide to pass on measuring yourself completely. That means you’ll need to guess what size you need using the size labels on the pattern pieces instead of your body measurement and the size chart. This is risky, considering every pattern maker uses their own measurement chart; a size large for one of my patterns might be different from a size large somewhere else, including the ready-to-wear clothes you might have in your closet. Hypothetically now you’re in a sewing no-man’s-land: you’ve jumped into your project completely blind, hoping you’ll accidentally end up with a piece of clothing that fits.

Are you ready to get out your measuring tape and find your body measurements? OK!

A few general guidelines

  • If possible, measure in the morning; by the end of the day, gravity has taken its toll on your body and you are not only shorter, but wider.
  • Wear your best-fitting (and ideally, supportive) undergarments when measuring. This is SO IMPORTANT!
  • If possible, have someone help you take these measurements. When your arms are relaxed at your sides instead of trying to hold up the tape measure, you’ll get a more accurate measurement.
  • Do not pull the tape measure as tight as it will go. The tape measure should fit as loosely around your body as possible without falling down.
  • Wear tight-fitting clothing such as leggings and a tank top, or just your undergarments, rather than loose-fitting or thick clothing.

Start with your upper bust. Place the tape measure around your torso, right under your armpits and over the top of your bust. The tape measure should form a loop that is more or less parallel to the floor, but if it’s angled up a little in the front to clear the top of your bust, that is fine. Write this measurement down.

Now measure your bust. Place the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust. Write this measurement down. 

It is helpful to have both bust and upper bust measurements whenever you are sewing a pattern that includes a bodice, such as a dress or blouse. In my sewing patterns, I include a “Choose your size” section that explains how to use these two numbers to help you choose your size, to decide between the A/B and C/D bodices (such as in Gemma, Josephine, and Beatrix), and to help determine whether a bust adjustment is needed.

how to measure the waist

For your waist, place the tape measure around the smallest part of your waist, and write this measurement down. It’s important to note that this measurement is usually taken WELL ABOVE THE BELLY BUTTON, and that unless you wear high-waisted pants, this is not where the waistband of your pants are. Most pant waistbands sit at the “low waist” which is different than the “natural waist” that you are measuring right now. 

If you’re pear- or hourglass-shaped like my assistant Melissa (shown in these pics), your natural waist should be pretty easy to find. If you’re apple-shaped or banana-shaped (like me) or carry a good deal of your weight around your waist, though, it may be a bit harder to locate, and may actually be larger than your hip measurement. In this case, measure between your lowest rib and the top of your hip bones.

how to measure your hip / made by rae

The hip measurement can also be a bit tricky to find/take, because the location of the hip on the body varies from person to person, making it hard to nail down an exact location for the hip measurement. The other thing that makes everything more confusing is that the hip measurement is usually NOT at your hip bones, which are (again, usually) much higher on the body, closer to your low waist, where you might find the waistband on a pair of low-rise jeans.

The hip measurement should be taken around the widest part of your booty, below your hip bones. Write this measurement down.

Once you have your measurements, write them down in a notebook so you can refer to them later. Remember that if you gain or lose weight, start or stop exercising, or have other changes to your body, you’ll want to take them again!

Now you’re ready to choose your size and make a muslin!

How to trace a pattern

How to trace a pattern

Recently I received an email from someone who had purchased Beatrix in print from a shop and had accidentally cut her pattern pieces out and then discovered that there were pattern pieces printed on the back side of the sheet. I felt terrible, of course (and we have instructions to trace on the pattern sheets for this very reason), but it reminded me that most people don’t trace their patterns, either because they don’t know how, or don’t think it’s important. And although I talk about tracing quite a bit on this blog (in the Luna Pantsalong, the Beatrixalong, and in one of my most popular posts, Making Clothes for me, lessons learned), I didn’t have a dedicated tracing post until now.

So, this post is for all of you who haven’t yet discovered the beauty of tracing your pattern pieces. I never, ever cut into my pattern pieces anymore, no matter what type of sewing pattern I am using. Here’s why I trace and how I do it!

Why trace your pattern pieces?

It may seem tedious, an additional step of prep before sewing a piece of clothing, so why do it at all? It’s true, it takes extra time to trace your pattern pieces, but here are some of the reasons to trace your pattern rather than cut into it:

  • Tracing allows you to keep the original pattern pieces intact, which is especially nice if they are printed on a delicate paper such as tissue, or if they are printed in such a way that the pattern pieces overlap (this is common in sewing books that include pattern sheets).
  • Tracing allows you to use a pattern multiple times in more than one size.
  • Tracing allows you to blend between sizes if you are more than one size (a smaller bust size than hip size, for example).
  • Tracing is absolutely essential if you need to make a significant adjustment, such as a bust adjustment or adding a dart, to a pattern.
  • Even for a PDF pattern, tracing saves paper and ink, not to mention the extra time it takes to tape it together if you need another size or view.
  • Tracing allows you to roll or fold the (usually very large) pattern pages up and put them away so you have more room to work. The tracings are easy to fold up and store, and are smaller and easier to deal with as you cut and sew (just make sure you’ve transferred all of the markings from the pattern before you put them away).

Cutting into a pattern presumes that you will only ever need one size, ever. While that is possibly true for you, it’s not been the case for me. Each pattern maker has their own unique sizing and I’ve made one size of a pattern only to discover that I’d prefer a size larger or smaller. I’ve also gone up and down through a handful of sizes over the past decade for a number of reasons (OK, mostly having kids), and every time I slide up or down a size, I’m glad I didn’t cut up my original pattern. This is especially true when the pattern I’m working with is a paper (printed) pattern, a tissue pattern, or a large-format copy shop pattern sheet.

In summary, tracing a pattern allows you to keep the printed pattern intact for making different sizes or views in the future or in case you need to make any fit adjustments.

What is Swedish Tracing Paper? 

How to trace a pattern with swedish tracing paper

My tracing paper of choice is Swedish Tracing Paper, shown above, which is 29″ wide and comes in a 10-yard roll. This has become more readily available at shops that sell garment fabric, so check your favorite retailer and support small businesses, please! I’ve also purchased it at WAWAK and Amazon.

A good substitute is Pellon 830 interfacing (shown below) but it’s a little thicker than STP, and usually more expensive if you calculate the price per square inch. I also prefer the 29″ width of STP, which I find easier to work with than the wider Pellon.

How to trace a pattern with swedish tracing paper

The main reason I prefer either of these options over basic (and usually cheaper) tracing paper is that it’s much more sturdy and less likely to tear, making it much more useful long-term. It’s about as strong as a dryer sheet, if that gives you an idea, which means it’s pretty hard to tear. If you’ve ever worked with a tissue paper pattern you know how easily those patterns can tear, so having a tracing that is more sturdy than the pattern you started with to me is a clear advantage.

In addition, swedish tracing paper is lightweight, easy to fold up and store, presses beautifully with an iron if it gets wrinkled, and can even be basted or pinned together if you want to do a quick “tissue fitting” (putting the pattern pieces up to your body to see how the pattern will fit).

How to trace a pattern

Here’s Jess to help me show you how to trace!

How to trace a pattern with swedish tracing paper

You will need:

  • The pattern you want to trace
  • Swedish tracing paper or Pellon 830
  • Straight edge and pencil
  • Pattern weights or other items to weigh down your tracing paper and keep it in place while tracing (we’ll be using coffee mugs in this tutorial. Campy-like.)

Step 1. Lay out your pattern on a large flat surface. We’re using Beatrix here.

How to trace a pattern with swedish tracing paper

Step 2. Place the tracing paper over the pattern piece you want to trace

How to trace a pattern with swedish tracing paper

Step 3. Place pattern weights or other objects over the tracing paper so it won’t move around while you trace.

How to trace a pattern with swedish tracing paper

Step 4. Trace around the outline of the pattern piece. Use a pencil and a straight edge, and choose the size line you need using the key given on the pattern.

How to trace a pattern with swedish tracing paper

Go slowly and trace carefully. You want your lines to be nice and clear.

How to trace a pattern with swedish tracing paper

How to trace a pattern with swedish tracing paper

Add notches or markings along the outer edge. You can add these as you go, or after you’ve finished the outline of the piece.

How to trace a pattern with swedish tracing paper

How to trace a pattern with swedish tracing paper

 

How to trace a pattern with swedish tracing paper

Step 5. Add additional markings and labels

The grainline arrow is one of the most critical pieces of information on a pattern piece (the vertical portion of a fold arrow functions as a grainline as well). Add fold arrows, cutting lines, hem lines, darts, dots, and any other additional markings such as pocket placement lines that are present on the pattern piece. You don’t want to have to go back to your original pattern sheet once you’ve put it away because you forgot to add an important marking.

How to trace a pattern with swedish tracing paper

Then add the name of the pattern, the size you traced (you would not believe how many times I have forgotten to do this and then wondered later what size a tracing was), and the pattern piece name and cutting indication (like “cut 2 interfacing” or “cut 2 on the fold”). Now your pattern piece is ready to use!

How to trace a pattern with swedish tracing paper

Staystitching is Important

staystitching

Attention, everyone, this is a sewing PSA. Staystitching is a garment-sewing technique that is really important. I am sharing this with you because when I started sewing, many years ago, I did not know what staystitching was, but even if I had, I probably would have skipped it. Now that I am older and wiser, I want to share this nugget of wisdom with you.

If you’ve ever sewn one of my women’s patterns (specifically for woven fabrics, such as Ruby, Beatrix, or Gemma), you may have noticed a step that instructs you to staystitch, followed by the words “IMPORTANT: DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.” I’m guessing most people ignore this, mostly because if I didn’t know better, I probably would.

I’ve mentioned before that my mom taught me how to sew, but knowing how stubborn and headstrong I was as a child,* I doubt once she communicated the fundamentals to me that I spent much time listening to any further details. Details like: be careful about skipping steps that might initially seem unnecessary, because you may regret it.

In addition, my younger sister Elli took a 4-H sewing class from a very strict and anal retentive seamstress, and her experience left a strong impression on me. I remember the jumper she was working on taking her the better part of a year to complete, which seemed like utter torture to me. It made sewing seem so un-fun. As a result, I took an alternate approach with a more carefree sewing attitude: skip all but the most essential steps, and see what happens. In some cases, I discovered it didn’t really matter that much (three rows of gathering stitches vs. two or even in some cases — GASP — ONE.), but in other cases, I’ve discovered that taking a little extra time to add a seam finish or in this case, staystitch, can make a big difference.

*I can picture my mom thinking, “Just as a child…?” as she reads this.

So…what IS staystitching?
Staystitching is a line of stitching added to the edge of a piece of fabric (often along a curved edge such as a neckline or an armhole, but not always) that stabilizes the fabric so that it won’t stretch out while it’s being sewn. Additionally, if you’re making a piece of clothing, staystitching prevents the edges from stretching out if you try it on to check fit. The staystitching lines in the photo below are around the armholes and neckline of my chambray Gemma tank.

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How and when do you staystitch?
To staystitch an edge, sew along the edge of the fabric, about 1/8″ away from the edge, using a normal straight stitch. Earlier patterns of mine said “using a regular length or slightly shorter than normal length stitch,” but I’ve since decided that a shorter stitch actually stretches out the fabric too much, so I now recommend a regular length stitch such as 2.5-3 mm.

As for when to staystitch, I think there are two schools of thought. The stricter approach is to staystitch edges after you cut out your fabric pieces, but before you do any sewing. I feel this is only necessary when sewing with a really unstable or slippery fabric. The other approach, which I prefer, is to staystitch any curved edges such as necklines or armholes after shoulder or side seams are sewn, but before facings or bindings or sleeves are attached. I take this more moderate/less strict approach because in most cases, woven fabrics are stable enough to sew some of the seams before staystitching without stretching out the garment significantly. Additionally, staystitching goes much faster when you can do a whole armhole in one go, instead of, say, having to staystitch the front armhole separately from the back armhole due to the shoulder seams having not yet been sewn.

That said, I can appreciate that some sewists would disagree and say that it’s better to be safe than sorry. I almost always favor the quick and easy sew, as long as it doesn’t sacrifice good construction technique.

I’ve probably utterly confused some of you, and if that’s the case, my recommendation would be just to try staystitching the next time you sew a piece of clothing. It definitely make more sense if you’ve got the garment in front of you, to be sure.

So, what say ye? Are you a Die-hard Staystitch-er? Or do you play it fast and loose and skip it? Have I convinced anyone to change your short-cutting ways?