I’ve put together a little series of not-exactly-high-quality-but-still-informative video tutorials to show how I do a partial (bodice) lining for the Washi Dress. You can see what this looks like on these inside-out pics of the Aqua Washi Dress here:
The lining I used is a white cotton batiste. Batiste is quite soft and lightweight yet still does a great job stabilizing the neckline on the double gauze dress. You could also use solid voile or that crazy-cheap poly lining stuff for the linings. I like to line the Washi rather than use the facings when I am making it with shot cottons, double gauze, or voile. In some cases I prefer a full lining (as with the maxi dress, I’ll do another post about the full lining soon), but if you have a half slip handy or are just making a tunic, this is a great technique to use.
Facings are the standard method included in the Washi Dress pattern. So why do a partial lining instead? There are a few advantages of doing a partial lining as opposed to using facings:
Partial Lining Advantages
- they are nearly as quick as putting in the facings and require the same amount of pattern pieces
- they hide the dart and shoulder seam allowances, so you can leave them unfinished
- they add coverage to the bodice for more sheer fabrics
- they look really nice and professional
- they don’t flip up and out of the neckline when you put on the dress/top like the facings often do
- looks great without sleeves too! this is a great way to finish the sleeveless versions without bias tape
For the sake of being thorough, here are a few of the disadvantages of this method:
Partial Lining Disadvantages
- unlike a FULL lining (which is more time-consuming as it means essentially constructing two dresses), you would still need to wear a half-slip with sheer fabrics
- it is definitely a more complicated technique than using facings, which is why I decided to make videos rather than try and tackle it in the instructions for this pattern
- it requires a bit of hand-sewing (but don’t worry!! it’s not much and can be done in front of the TV in matter of minutes)
To make the partial lining as shown in this video, you will need to find the unlabeled and oh-so-subtle grey curved line that goes across the “BACK DRESS” pattern piece (the red arrow is pointing to it) from your Washi Dress pattern:
Do you see it? OK! You’re ready to watch the videos!
Washi Dress Bodice Lining – Part I (4 min)
Prepping the dress and lining pieces
Washi Dress Bodice Lining – Part II (2 min)
Sewing front and back lining together
Washi Dress Bodice Lining – Part III (2.5 min)
Attaching the lining to the neck
Washi Dress Bodice Lining – Part IV (5.5 min)
Attaching the lining at the armholes
Washi Dress Bodice Lining – Part V (4 min)
Turning the dress right-side out and getting ready to sew side-seams
Washi Dress Bodice Lining – Part VI (2 min)
Shows finished side seams and hand-sewing
Hope you find those to be extremely useful as you make more and more Washi Dresses!
What about a full lining?
As I mentioned already, I will have another how-to post very soon for those of you who are interested in a full lining such as the one I did for the voile maxi dress, but for now, you can use the technique shown in this video for a full lining as well; instead of using just the bodice pieces, you would construct a second dress from your lining fabric (I do one line of shirring only on the lining, and instead of pleating the front skirt lining, I sew it flat to the front bodice and trim the excess at the sides) and assemble the dress and lining together just as shown in videos III, IV, and V. Then hem the bottom of the dress over the lining or handtack the lining to the dress at the bottoms of the side seams.
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